Rediscovering Sri Owen and “Indonesian Regional Cooking”

Photos of Sri Owen (2018) Photo source (BBC Indonesia)

As an Indonesian, I feel quite disappointed (almost ashamed) with myself for not discovering the incredible, inspiring work of Ibu Sri Owen sooner, a figure that ultimately holds a prominent influence in Indonesia, and the world’s culinary scene. Known as the “Indonesian Culinary Ambassador Abroad”, Sri Owen began her journey with her first cookbook in 1976 and has since published more than a dozen books, each a testament to her deep love and passions for introducing traditional Indonesian cuisine and cooking technique worldwide. While her cookbooks might not be widely recognized within Indonesia (my own personal opinion), her works have received tremendous appreciation and garnered significant attention internationally. Some of her work has been nominated and even awarded with prominent accolades in the culinary world, including André Simon Memorial Award, Julia Child Award and the James Beard Award, which is often referred to as the “Oscars of the Food World”. 

In my very honest opinion, Ibu Sri Owen definitely deserves more recognition, not just for her delicate and thoughtful work in introducing Indonesian cuisine to a global audience, but also for revealing, highlighting and preserving the identity of Indonesian cuisine. Moreover, she clearly deserves praise for her dedication to shedding light on aspects of Indonesian culinary heritage that have long been overlooked or forgotten, whether intentionally or not. 

Sri Owen’s Cookbook: Indonesian Regional Cooking 

Indonesian Regional Cooking by Sri Owen (1995) Photo Source (Amazon)

In her book, “Indonesian Regional Cooking,” Sri Owen has thoughtfully curated popular regional recipes from Sumatra, Bali, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, and beyond. Each recipe holds a special memory and story from her personal life, successfully transmitting her excitement, passion and perspectives on Indonesian regional cuisine, which makes the readers equally excited. The book feels like a warm conversation with a mother or grandmother, who is excitedly guiding us through the intricacies of generation’s pass down cooking–while sharing the beautiful stories and cherished memories behind the recipe and the cooking technique being shared. 

While it is vivid to see how her cookbook has been based on thorough taste tests and experiments around the authentic regional recipes, yet she has adapted them thoughtfully for a global audience. By suggesting alternative ingredients for those hard to find abroad, she ensures the essence of the dish remains intact. Some recipes have been innovated slightly to enhance its taste, texture, and presentation, setting a higher standard of what Indonesian regional cuisine should strive for. 

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As an Indonesian reader, many of Owen’s statements and stories resonate deeply with my own feelings and perspectives on our cuisine. Her words articulate the gaps and challenges we face, expressing sentiments that many of us struggle to put into words. Every sentence feels familiar and dear to our hearts, reflecting the hope, dreams, and feeling of under appreciated (that some actually might really feel) regarding Indonesian culinary heritage. 

Ibu Sri Owen’s work also reveals the issues with our attitude and relationship with our own food as Indonesians–issues that have been avoided or left unaddressed for too long. Her insights serve as a solid reminder of what we should stand for and strive for in the world’s culinary landscape. Here are some of her words of wisdom that highlight our culinary identity, challenges, and aspirations: 

“My final conviction then is that Indonesians must stop apologizing for their food and learn to take a pride in it” 

“We must not lose the past and that we must make old dishes popular and acceptable in a modern, sophisticated market”

“Two obstacles to Indonesian food achieving its proper statute: lack of a restaurant keeping tradition”

“I want most of all to make Indonesians confident that their food, cooked, and served as it should be, is among the best in the world”

“One of its great achievements, and one that is too easily taken for granted by outsiders, is its own unity. Indonesians have paid a high price for this, but they earlier paid a much higher price for disunity”

“It is difficult for Indonesians, especially in the provinces, to offer their own local food to visitors, partly because they know that however good it tastes it doesn’t always look very appetizing”

“As long as you have the essential ingredients in the right proportions, you are right to do whatever you can to make the dish attractive to your guests or your audience”.

References

Owen, S. (1995). Indonesian Regional Cooking. St Martins Press.

Owen, S. (n.d.). Sri Owen. Www.sriowen.com. Retrieved July 7, 2024, from http://www.sriowen.com/