After putting it off for almost a year, I finally treated myself to a new blender and grinder — and I have to say, I’m so glad I did. What excited me the most? Finally being able to make bumbu halus — that smooth, aromatic spice paste at the heart of so many Indonesian dishes.
This weekend, I put my new kitchen tools to use by making pepes jamur, a traditional Indonesian dish made with mushrooms, spices, and banana leaves. It’s one of those simple lunch dishes I grew up eating at home in Indonesia — usually paired with warm rice and a spoonful of sambal. Being far from home, recreating these kinds of meals brings me right back to the comfort and warmth of my childhood kitchen.
But pepes isn’t just a dish — it’s a traditional cooking technique that’s believed to have originated in West Java, particularly in the Sundanese region. Today, it’s enjoyed across Indonesia in many forms and flavors.
If you’ve ever used aluminum foil to roast or steam food, banana leaves serve a similar purpose in Indonesian kitchens. Long before modern appliances existed, people would wrap their food in banana or teak leaves to cook or preserve it. There’s even a saying that goes:
“Pepes sudah ada sejak nenek moyang…” — Pepes has been around since our ancestors. It was a way to keep food fresh by wrapping it in leaves and cooking it over an open flame (Source).
In the past, Sundanese families working in the fields or highlands would prepare their food this way — wrapping meals in banana leaves to take to work, then reheating them over hot coals at lunchtime. Think of it as the original, all-natural lunch box!
According to Teddi Muhtadi, a Sundanese literature lecturer from Padjadjaran University, pepes — or pais, as it’s called in Sundanese — was especially popular in rural highland and plantation communities. For these communities, leafy plants (dedaunan) from the garden were more than just food — they were deeply meaningful. This is reflected in their enduring love for lalapan (fresh raw vegetables served with sambal), which remains a staple of Sundanese cuisine.
Banana leaves weren’t just used for cooking; they were also a sustainable way to store or carry raw food. Over time, wrapping food in banana leaves became a culinary tradition that connected practicality with flavor.
You can make pepes with almost anything — fish, tofu, tempeh, or oncom — but what makes it truly special is the way the main ingredient is marinated in rich, aromatic bumbu halus, then layered with daun kemangi (Indonesian lemon basil). The kemangi adds a bright, herbal freshness that lifts and balances the deep, savory flavors of the spices and proteins.
Finally, the entire bundle is wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked over wood charcoal. This gentle method infuses the dish with a subtle smokiness, while the banana leaves release their natural aroma into the food — making the result incredibly fragrant and delicious.
If you’re looking for new ways to enjoy plant-based protein — or simply want to explore more flavor-forward dishes rooted in tradition — pepes is a timeless and nourishing option worth trying.
For my version, I made a fresh batch of bumbu halus using shallots, garlic, red chilies, galangal, lemongrass, and a few other staples. After blending the mixture, I sautéed it with lime leaves and kemangi, folded it into a bowl of tender oyster mushrooms (lightly crushed), added an egg for binding, and wrapped everything in banana leaves. I steamed the parcels until soft, then gave them a quick sear in a pan to bring out the aroma. It was simple, satisfying — and for me, it tasted like home.
What traditional dishes bring you comfort or help you feel closer to your roots? Whether you’re exploring Indonesian flavors for the first time or revisiting your cultural heritage, I hope this inspires you to cook something wrapped in nostalgia, flavor — and a little banana leaf.
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